We made it a lazy morning and early afternoon on Tuesday, mostly to give people a down day and to let Eva continue to recover, but also because the Israel museum doesn’t open until 4pm on Tuesdays. We went grocery shopping, played games, slept in, napped, etc.
The Israel museum is free for children 17 and younger on Tuesdays, so we decided to take advantage of that. (Though I was a trifle nervous, remember how crowded Thanksgiving Point in Utah gets on their “Two Dollar Tuesdays” in August. But it wasn’t bad at all!)
Gee under basalt carved lintel from a Golan synagogue.Em under limestone lintel, Israel Museum
Audio guides were provided for those who wanted them, we rented a wheelchair for Eva, and then we were off!
To get to the archeological wing of the museum, you had to walk up this really long passageway. It was mostly empty (except some gorgeous mosaics), but Gee loved it. They could really build up some steam zooming back down the hallway.
The museum was of varying interest to the different members of our family. Perhaps predictably, my two oldest kids were immersed and wandered off on their own, while the three younger kids were more quickly bored and less likely to wander. Which meant they were always in my vicinity. And expressing surprise at how slowly I was going.
Despite these many interruptions, I soaked in the exhibit on ancient adornment, the history of glassmaking (I teach a super short version of this to my Diamonds and Gems students, so I really enjoyed it!), and then on to the Egyptian stuff.
Mosaics, 6th C CE, Beth Shean, stone and glass. I really love mosaics–fair warning, I really love mosaics. Lots of pictures ahead.Human-shaped coffins, Deir el-Balah, 13th BCE, pottery, Gaza StripPart of a mosaic floor from a church, Kissufim, norther Negev, 6th C CE. That poor camel does not look impressed with carrying all those amphorae (wine jars).Beads and pendants, Nahal Hemar Cave, Tahunian culture, 10,000 – 8,000 years ago, wood, plaster, stone, shell, rope, and pigmentRe-strung carnelian bead strand, Kabri, Wadi Rabah, 7,500 – 6,500 years agoWhen teaching Diamonds and Gems, I always show my students a video of a man using a bow drill, like this one, to put a hole in a flat stone. It’s pretty amazing how ancient people were able to shape and form stone into jewelry.I spent WAY too much time in the glass exhibit. This gorgeous Roman-era pitcher has the best patina–the damage done by 2000 years of sun and chemicals in the earth. That’s what gives it the gorgeous iridescence. Look! A surprisingly modern exhibit of a cute kiddo. (Gee, Israel Museum)Tomb painting depicting the king’s chief sculptor, Nebamun, bringing an offering to the gods. 14th C BCE, painted plasterAmarna Period signet ring inscribed “Aten, dwelling on the horizon, lord of joy” 14th C BCE gold.
Eventually, at the “encouragement” of my children, I gave up on my slow perusal of the antiquities, and led my chicks to the Shrine of the Book, where the priceless Dead Sea Scrolls are stored. It was a bit of a disappointment, sadly, because they don’t display the Isaiah scroll anymore—it’s a facsimile. Preservation concerns, I get it, but it was a kind of bummer.
Blurry picture of my three little chicks (Yum, Gee, Hebs), Israel MuseumMore mosaics! I think they are so amazing! Mosaic floor from a church, el-Makr, western Galilee, 5th C CE, Headed to the Shrine of the BookBradley and Eva, entering the courtyard by the Shrine of the Book.Marvelous family! Yum, Hebs, LaDonna.
The Shrine of the Book (you aren’t allowed to take photos in there) is underground with a domed top–shaped to look like the lids of the jars used to house the scrolls in their caves in Wadi Qumran.I really like these two.Sarcophagus, Caesarea, Roman period, Marble. “The sarcophagus is decorated with a scene from the myth of Leda and the Swan.”Corinthian capital, Caesarea, Roman period, marble.We marveled at the tiny “stones”, each individually carved, to make up the city walls.
But do you know what WASN’T a disappointment? The Second Temple Period recreation of the city of Jerusalem. It used to be at the Holy Land Hotel, now it is at the museum, and it is spectacular! Honestly, it is so much bigger than I ever thought, and so intricate and well-maintained. Everyone loved it, and we spent a good 40 minutes there.View of the Temple and Antonia Fortress, with various neighborhoods and streets in the foreground.My Em, Yummy, and Gee at the Second Temple Period model of Jerusalem. You can kinda get a feel for how big the model is from this picture. Eva and Bradley, overlooking the Temple, with the Shrine of the Book in the background.The sun was setting, and so the light was so golden and beautiful, I kept snapping pictures.I love this little house! (It was probably representing a BIG house, but still. Look at the detail!One of the gates (I really can’t remember which!)The Pools of Bethseda, where Jesus healed the lame man who waiting 38 years. The Temple Complex, with the porticos and courts and gates.The detail is amazing. You can see into the different courts and the beautiful doors into the Holy Place.Antonia Fortress–right next to the temple complex because the Romans were no fools. They knew that most rebellions and riots were going to start at the Jews’ holy place, and so they built their huge barracks so their soldiers were right there, waiting…The large patios and plazas in front of the temple. Just another gorgeous shot. City of David! So much lower than the Temple Mount, but defensible and close to water! (The Gihon Spring, and eventually Hezekiah’s Tunnel and the Pool of Siloam.) Another view of the City of David. Sunset over the Second Temple.
At that point, it was about 7:30, and the first wave of our family was ready to head back to the apartment. Zee, LaDonna, and I stayed almost till closing at 9–we went straight to the Byzantium displays, because who doesn’t love a good Byzantium relic?–but even we were flagging by the end. We barely scratched the surface—hopefully we can return before we leave.
Intaglio–a type of stone carving that allows the stone to be a seal. Carnelian, Herakles and Nemean lion, 200 BC.More mosaics, from a synagogue after the fall of the Jerusalem.GIANT aisle mosaic, from a Byzantine church, Kissufim, western Negeve, 578 CE, stone and glass. Seriously, this thing was SO huge. Because they were designed to be walked on, the aisle mosaics weren’t decorated with sacred figures and motifs. “Instea, they usually bore scenes of daily life that were common in the Hellenistic-Roman artistic tradition. This mosaic shows animals hunting and being hunted, as well as imaginary beasts.”GIANT aisle mosaic, from a Byzantine church, Kissufim, western Negeve, 578 CE, stone and glass. Seriously, this thing was SO huge. Because they were designed to be walked on, the aisle mosaics weren’t decorated with sacred figures and motifs. “Instea, they usually bore scenes of daily life that were common in the Hellenistic-Roman artistic tradition. This mosaic shows animals hunting and being hunted, as well as imaginary beasts.”Giant aisle mosaic, from the second floor of the gallery.Sardonyx!! (The striped stone commonly used for cameos)Gorgeous filigree, with granulation of tiny balls. 11th-12th C, gold, Ashkelon.
And I realize I took zero picture of my Zee. At 18, he’s old enough to wander around and do his own thing, and I love that about him. But it meant I didn’t get any pictures!
